SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil 2K

Frequently asked questions

Is SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil also available in colours other than the standard colours from the COLOUR CHARTS?

Yes. We can make colour pigment on request from almost all colours that can be made in a Colour Mixing System, including all RAL and NCS colours. This can be used to create a semi-transparent colour, in either a base Clear or a base White. This is a nice customization possibility. Please contact us for more information or to place an order. In addition, the individual COLOUR PIGMENTS can be mixed with each other for even more colour options.

Which floor lacquer can I use to overcoat SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil?

This is only possible with SKYLT Original #5510 or SKYLT Titanium #5550. All other floor lacquers do not adhere sufficiently to the oil. Therefore, do not use SKYLT Primer #5020, SKYLT Extra #5300 Topcoat 2K or STEP floor lacquers directly over the oil. Do you want a different gloss level than ultra-matt? That is not problem at all. After the first layer of SKYLT Original #5510 or SKYLT Titanium #5550, you can sand in between and use a different type of floor lacquer.

If you want to use STEP Parquet Lacquer 2K #6540 Gloss as the final layer, and additional intermediate layer of STEP Parquet Lacquer 2K #6550 Matte or #6560 Satijn is required.

What is a handy way to apply the oil manually to smaller surfaces, such as kitchen fronts and furniture panels?

The following method is nice and quick and saves a lot of manual work: apply the oil sparingly with a 10cm paint roller. After a few panels, you will quickly know what the right amount of oil is. It is better to start with too little than too much. Rub in with a Rotex on a gentle setting and low speed with a red or white pad. Then rub dry completely manually with cloths. If you haven’t applied too much oil, you will notice that rubbing dry requires less force, fewer cloths, and you will be finished faster.

How many hours after rubbing dry the SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil 2K can the first layer of floor lacquer be applied?

After rubbing it dry, the SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil 2K can be recoated immediately. But do not wait longer than 48 hours before applying the first layer of floor lacquer.

Why do I have to apply the first layer of floor lacquer within 48 hours?

There are two reasons for this. The first is technical: waiting longer than 48 hours reduces the chance of the floor lacquer adhering. The second is pragmatic: the longer the waiting time between applying the oil and the floor lacquer, the greater the chance that the surface will become damaged and dirty, or that the floor will be walked on before the system is finished. You want to avoid this because stain removal and repair is difficult and labourious.

Does it make a difference if I recoat immediately after rubbing dry the SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil, or after drying overnight, for example?

Yes, there is a small colour difference in the end result between recoating immediately and recoating after a drying period. If you were to do this in the same visible area next to each other, it would be visible in the end result. So make sure do to the entire job in the same way. Also take this into account when making a representative colour sample.

Can you use SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil 2K in proportion, for example by mixing half a can with half the hardener?

Yes, that is perfectly possible. It would be a waste to make a whole can if less material is needed. We have a table with the filling weights of the oil, the colour and the hardener available. We can share it on request; please contact us for this. Using a small kitchen scale with a TARE function, you can very accurately make a small amount of the oil in the correct mixing ratio. Please note that a variation in the proportion of the colour pigment will also result in a variation in the final colour.

If there are no scales available, you can also mix the whole can of oil in colour, then take out a portion and mix the hardener in an estimated volume ration of 4:1.

Does an opened packaging stays good for a long time?

Opening a packaging of oil or floor lacquer always limits the shelf life of the content. For example, an opened can of oil can develop a film due to drying. Previously mixed colour pigment can sink. The hardener reacts to moisture and can thicken. We recommend cleaning the closure of the packaging thoroughly and resealing them as well as possible. Squeeze out the air in pouch packaging. Store in a dry and frost-free place. When reusing, visually inspect the material. If it deviates significantly from fresh material, smells different or can no longer be stirred and processed properly, we advice not using the products.

Is it necessary to wipe the SKYLT Recoatable Colour Oil dry?

Yes! In fact, wiping the oil thoroughly dry is essential for the varnish to adhere properly. If you do not wipe it dry properly, there is a high risk of the varnish peeling off. Use highly absorbent, lint-free cotton cloths for rubbing the surface dry. Replace saturated cloths with fresh ones in good time. The surface has been rubbed dry sufficiently if you can walk on it with clean, dry shoes without leaving footprints, or touch it with clean, dry hands without leaving fingerprints.

What about intermediate sanding in the system of the SKYLT Recoatable Oil 2K? Am I not sanding quickly through the lacquer layer and then removing the colours? Is it really necessary?

We always recommend sanding in between coats. Just as with a three-coat varnish system, you should do this before applying the final coat. It ensures a smoother finish and improves adhesion. If you are changing the type of varnish (for example, from SKYLT Original to STEP Parquet Varnish 2K Matt or from SKYLT Original to SKYLT Extra Topcoat), intermediate sanding is essential.

On a normally sanded surface, intermediate sanding after the first coat of varnish is no problem at all. When using a single-disc floor polisher, do not use a counterweight and use a P120–150 or 180 sanding pad that has lost its initial sharpness. Sand smoothly and do not apply more pressure than is necessary to break down the raised fibres. If you want even more control, use a hand-held sander set to a lower speed (for example, 3 out of 6) and the ‘gentle’ setting, rather than a single-disc floor polisher. Again, use sandpaper that has lost its initial sharpness. Do not apply pressure to external corners.

How can I check the adhesion of the first coat of the varnish on the oil?

If you haven’t noticed any irregularities during the light sanding, you can assume that the adhesion is good. If you want to check more thoroughly, use high-quality yellow painter’s tape to test whether the varnish is firmly bonded. Stick a strip of tape to the floor, press it down firmly and then pull the tape off in one swift motion.

I've noticed the varnish layer is peeling away. What should I do now?

That’s a nuisance. Unfortunately, this cannot be remedied by simply applying another coat of varnish on top. It is possible that the adhesion may improve as the applied varnish layers continue to cure. If your schedule allows, wait at least three days and check the adhesion again. If the varnish is now properly bonded, you can proceed with applying the final coat. If there is no time to wait, or if the adhesion remains insufficient, there is no alternative but to sand the wood down to the bare wood and reapply the system from scratch.